This summer was...

[bluesilver]

Surfing is a love-hate relationshit. You love it.. but it beats and pummels you. You keep coming back for more and you tell your friends you got that black eye from falling down the stairs, not surfing.. becuase you don't know anyone in oregon that surfs anyways.

Maybe your not even burned out. Maybe you miss something that it was before you moved.. Freinds, beer, fires, social stoke.

who knows

[Doc]

I am the exact opposite...
Surfing now for going on 40 years...
Today was the best ever...
Well not quality wise...
I pretty much am stoked on surfing...
Although I did get get a cramp today...
That sucked.

It's funny...
I surfed in So Cal for many years...
And dealing with the crowds...
And that was 20 years ago crowds...
I am way more amped to surf in Oregon...
Today there were 4 other people out...
And noone was within 25 yards of me...
I got every wave I paddled for...
It was sunny, offshore and surfable...
What more can you ask for?

Doc

Doc

[Qurph]

yeah, when living in s.crz. i surfed more but was stoked less than i am back up here.

[Dub Star]

20 some odd years and I've seen em come and I've seen em go. I hope more people get this feeling. Please stop surfing now.

[smithgrind]

My stoke for surfing has been pretty solid this summer despite the crappy surf we had early on.

Granted, there have been times when I wasn't too excited by surfing. Looking back, I think my loss of desire for surf was tied to other factors in my life that were bringing me down. A good session could give me a bump in the right direction, but it wasn't the cure all to my headf*ck. Sometimes I'd be in the lineup and out of nowhere I'd start to process heavy life issues and the stoke was over right then and there. I realized I needed to put some time in dealing with my problems in a constructive manner so as to free up that space I needed to enjoy surfing. Too much surfing knocked off my balance at that time. Lesson learned...

[pickleweed]

Surfing is a love-hate relationshit. You love it.. but it beats and pummels you. You keep coming back for more and you tell your friends you got that black eye from falling down the stairs, not surfing..

Sometimes.....the ocean says, "now look what you made me do"

The thing I used to hate about surfing is nature, the ocean, always called the shots. Some days, I would just feel like, three foot, steep and fast, and the ocean would say, "No, not today, Pickle. Today, I think I'm going to be eight foot, dis-organized, and mushy".
The other sports I've done, I called the shots, I felt like shooting, so I worked on coming of picks, and pick and pop. Other days, I felt like dribbling, so I dribbled. Some days, I just felt like goofing off, so I goofed off.
There's no goofing off in surfing, except when it's one foot, and when it's eight foot, there's no warm-up, once your in your in it. I would paddle for my first three waves, wouldn't make them, and that would be the warm up, but then I would be spent and despite how hard I tried, I wouldn't be able to make it back out.
I wouldn't be able to get out just as perfect waves break right in front of my face, on top of my head, and a really good surfer, like, pro-moe, is doing a cutty, then off the top, then floater, then kick-out way outside, having the time of his life.
I would get out of the water, frustrated and spent. That's when I would hate surfing. Then other days, I felt good, strong, had the right board, and there weren't many people out. Those where good days

[pickleweed]

......But this summer. I was able to really tap the potential of a couple spots I have been checking a for a few years. One spot, really turned on, better than I thought it had the potential to do. Three weeks, three seperate sessions, I hit it perfect, all alone of course, and was stoked. I got gready, after those weeks, and started going when something wasn't right, the wind, the swell size, direction, or period, or the tide and was skunked for four weeks.
Other than that, I was just selective around here, I went out at the J**** only when I knew it would be good for me, caught the c***** good for me and all alone a couple times, and avoided the g**** all together. Being a "freak" I can't handle the crowds there in a such a tight spot. I even went south, a little bit, and caught some short little peelers, at a spot I've checked over a hundred times but had no luck.

[bluesilver]

The water was just freaking cold this year

[nm]

The water was just freaking cold this year

Don't know where you've been surfing...........but here in Oregon we've had several weeks of near 60 degree water (with a few 60+ days thrown in for good measure). Didn't drop below 50 until the first week of September....