Summer Surf Log 2023

[smithgrind]

What kind of kuntz go cowboy line dancing instead of popping a pastie and a pilsner at the pad?

[Major Lazer]

A kuntz who rides a training wheel trailer, all the less at Bohidis

[Hey Kunce!]

Trailers are 4 kunce 4 sure.

Seen a half decent standard of surfing at bodhies recently. well half decent by the standard of you kunce.

[Tex]

Flat AF up here...

[Major Lazer]

WOW Another OSP report admitting flatness. Breaking records here folks. Not even a "rode the tidal bore on buddys 12 footer glider. Perfect 6" peelers over the rocks" Ofcourse it was surfing is such an anomaly in that zone. Why all the OG surfers are snowboarders. Always wanted to try summer spearfishing in that zone.

[BOX]

Went out last night fully prepared to tell you all this morning about how I totally scored on the longboard despite the forecast indicating that conditions would be terrible.

Welp, conditions were indeed terrible. I did catch a few, but they were all short and junky. On the plus side, though, I had the place to myself. I guess I’m the only one fool enough to paddle out in that jumbled south wind high-tide mess.

Later on the beach a guy from out of the area asked me where the break was where everybody surfed since he wanted to go out. “Believe it or not, dude, it’s right here."

There’s no bad days in the water, but sometimes there’s days with bad water I guess. Stoke level = slightly less than Zooey Deschanel with a new ukelele...

[Major Lazer]

I think you had the right idea with swell, little bump from weak low that moved in over there. Only saw a few drops of moisture here. Swell lasts through today maybe tom am and conditions look really good down there rn. Plenty loggable on Agate cam, even seeing some waves being ridden on what look like fish or grovelers, sand seems like its been good there for days now. PM me if you don't have link to free version of that Surfline cam. Water may even be warmish too? Buddy hit me up to go, but passed. Prob should of joined, but lacking motivation and took some flex time and PTO last week to go backpacking. Hopefully you can hit it after work. I would be on it if I were right there.

[BOX]

Didn’t make it out last night but did get up for a dawn patrol session early this morning near the jetty. Wasn’t too bad. Caught a couple of decent ones. Nothing glorious but definitely enough to put a smile on my face and get rid of the bad taste from my previous session. Stoke level = dark leather seats in a black sedan parked in Death Valley in August

[Doc]

Motivated down on Monday...
Can't even fathom August weekends...
Checked spot #1 that no one surfs...
Looked ok, but thigh high & closing out...
Checked spot #2 that nearly everyone surfs...
Late morning but too too many people...
For such a small small beach...
Checked spot #3 that no one surfs...
And there were some peaks & corners...
Enough to pass on checking #4 & #5...
And definitely not Oregon's fave of faves...
Suited up paddled out on a 9'6" G&S...
Lefts & Rights but mostly lefts...
Oily smooth glass and thigh to waist high...
Fun enough to warrant about 3 hours...
I did not see the cougar.
Doc

[Major Lazer]

Gotta love spot #3. Always good to hear about sessions with solitude especially in the middle of summer. Seems like the sand is better than it has been there in recent years. That said, I've avoided the OR surf and beach crowds all together this past month by just..... not surfing.

But alas summer surf has not been a bummer as some sneaky Atlantic wind swell has provided me a handful of fun sessions the past week or so. Even got a CH to WH day on the point, which was the highlight. Rippable lined up rocky rights peeling and bowling on inside on the self shaped quad fishy which is now retired here in right point heaven. Crowd of 4 was also a treat. Otherwise have had several other sessions at the beach break I learned to surf at almost 40 years ago now! Yest 3 sessions and even got the gromitas out for their 1st sessions in a while. My youngest exclaimed " I would surf so much more if the water was this warm" And 75 degree water and boardies does feel nice.

Back next week in the 5mil likely beating the heat in Gotham. Looks like 1st solidish bump in quite some time. 300ish and likely wonky but hopefully something lines up other than cold close outs.

[Major Lazer]

Back in the Pac... made it down to Sands for 1st time since May for better or worse. Didn't last long in Gothams murderous heat, like a day, kinda perfect out here rn although the mid-day sun and warmth are kinda intense requiring some shade Water is frio, but admittedly felt good sans hand stinging on entry. Creeks are practically bone dry, cove is packed with sand from N to S. Typical walled closeouts, even at peak high and only 3'-4' The upside, punchier than per usual, fast, and pretty rampy with tight pockets, when and if you can find those fast corners. Very short rides with just one hit on "good" ones. Fun to be back on the MR thou. Really digging the twin + training wheel. Surprisingly quiet mid-week mid-day, but think I prefer the 3'-4' small days with no wind vs. these 5'-9' mid-period swells with NW's at the moment. Sand seems to still be around at the mystos I was surfing this past May and June and heard some mummers of fun ones last week on the Doug Fir wireless. Looking forward to and hopefully those conditions in the coming month But not today, another wonky solidish 9-second wind swell on the buoys. Don't get to amped on these swells, but good to get some paddle time in with Autumn out the back.

[Major Lazer]

Several more sessions, all on the 5'11" 80s-inspired chonk SB. Great to dust this custom off. Have had it just over a year now and don't feel I have had enough sessions on it. Squash tails sure are a blast. Fri ended up being better than anticipated. Bit of wonk, but some wedgy lefts with a ton of thump. Kooks were getting straight dusted left and right. Been a while since I have surfed it like that. Sessions following were a bit more groomed. Plenty of closeouts, but those peaky lefts the mix. Quick and no margin for error or adjusting of foot placement. Goofys definitely have the advantage getting that toe side high line off the drop without having to really crank a bottom turn. Fun run of swell and more on tap today. Need to find some rights and a change of scenery.

[Tex]

posting up in Manzanita for 8/31-9/7 so will have reports coming soon.

[Doc]

Surfboarded some waist high glassy peelers for 2-3 hours yesterday...
No help was offered in riding wave after wave after wave...
So I took them all for myself, selfishly...
I did embarrassingly have to wade several yards after my board once...
No other surfers nor cougars were sighted in the vicinity...
How I like it.
Doc

[smithgrind]

Took a long walk for a hour of really crappy waves, scout’s honor.
Bailed and decided I needed to get my holiday weekend party on and jetted down to Brohampton.
Caught a few lumpy, thumpy ones under sunny skies before the marine layer bum rushed the beach
and rendered visibility to pea soup status. Made some very poor wave choice selections based on feel
as opposed actually seeing the waves and got jack hammered into the shories.
I’m ready for fall.