I had read that already. They made Shorties out to be much better than it is in that piece. I guess it was 72, but still....... thick tubes
"We jammed back to the cove and saw some good tubes. After spending a half-hour getting into our wetsuits and gear, we paddled out for our first time in Oregon. The water was cold, really cold. The waves were super clean—each one a different color of blue depending upon the thickness of the tube. Good lefts were coming off one side of the cove and good rights off the other side. I did not realize how beautiful this paradise was until I got out in the water. It was like dreaming of the most perfect scenery for a surf spot and having it come true. Giant pine trees grew all the way down to the water with a waterfall rushing down one side of the cove, a blowhole shooting water twenty feet in the air on the other side, and excellent four-to-six-foot waves in the middle. The lefts were best and Goober was the outstanding surfer of the day even though Keating gave him a run for his money."
I have a copy of the early 80s Surfer with OR trip article.
Routine is a vampire. Manu Chao-