2024 surfing hyperbole

[Doc]

Looking pretty burly this weekend...
Just in time for my late September trip...
I might have to drink beer & hunt for mushrooms...
Depending on my tolerance for getting crushed...
In my old age.
Doc

[Foul Pete]

it will all be just fine, Doc.

Hopefully see you out there.

Crazy road closures made getting to the beach tricky Sunday but I snuck past some flaggers and had very pleasant evening mostly to myself on some long soft but workable lefts.

[Tex]

"snuck past the flaggers"...damn, gotta say, never attempted that before, glad you scored.

[Major Lazer]

Certainly looks like it's time to put that big boy pants on and dust of my 7"2' fungun, eh? Check those leash loops and re-up on new leg rope if ya haven't in a few years.

Couple more Surfers Summer seashwons. Kine lil 5-6 at 10-11 runnin last several days and things seemed to be on repeat. Kinda classic September, fog pulled back, late summer warmth, and groudish swell pulses not to long of a period to close out the bars. Copped another golden hour last night and glad I did. Swell went west and best one I've had down there in the last few weeks and bars have been pretty tidy. Surfed for 3 hours until dark. Was cruisey and a little crowded on big high, but got more consistent with less water and turned on just south of middle as the tide sucked out last hour with a small crew. Wedgey clean long lefts, easy entries, race a section, rip a few guttys, etc. Offshore fog set to the north, pink cotton candy cloud swirls to the south, termites swarming in the line up, jellies washed up on the beach. Classic September.

[Howly Wolf]

Quite a few breaks are packed in tighter than your upcoming colonoscopy. Needs a good flushing.

[Major Lazer]

Packed in can be a good thing sometimes. But ya burned some gas with por results this month which included labor day weekend at SB which was quite terrible surfwise. Lately to lazy to go to far and well it's been quite windy. Bars have been quite good at the obv IMHO and I am harsh critic of the waves there. Will be interesting to see what this swell event did if anything.aybe some fine tunning? Would like to see 4'-5' at 11 and no wind, some east would be nice, to think outside of the box. Could use some good rights.... pretty tried of going left.

[INTERN]

Got out to the popular, couple fridays ago. Took the old beat-up 70's short single. Want to push away from the longboard and start riding shorter. It felt fat and thick without any push behind the waves, but could have been not enough foam or just this funky old board, but I felt like I didn't even know what I was doing. And I used to ride this thing at pleasure and the hook. Looking at the used section. How much volume do I really need 31l? 38l?

[BOX]

Had a colonoscopy about a year ago. I found that the prep was way worse than the actual procedure. Came out clean, though. Well, at least the results did.

Had a pretty good summer. Got a lot of surfing in. Typically a couple of dawn patrol sessions before work and a sunset session each week. Found a spot that works really well in certain tide conditions. Endless clean right-handers. If I figured it out, I assumed everyone did but on a lot of days I would be the only one out or maybe one or two other heads in the water. No complaints about that.

Now the sunlight is working against this full time working stiff. Going to have to start coming in late/leaving work early if I want to get a session in. No real complaints about that, either.

[Major Lazer]

Sounds like a fun summer and hopefully it wasn't to windy and or foggy. Looking forward to fall surf but not the shorter days. The light around the equinoxes is always may favorite. Not to late, not to early, and enough time to get a solid sesh before or in my case more typically, after work.

Capped a pretty fun September, if not epic solely considering my score at the beginning of the month, with more of the same. Doc was waking out just as it was getting good and Foul got there to late although depends how long he lingered. Surfed same corner I had luck with previous sesh and surprisingly not many heads if at all. Hour or so into suckout a bit slow on the good ones but they came and without comp, was perfect. Had one of the more vertical feeling backside turns at this spot in a while in as critical of a spot as you can due to perfect timing I reckon. Almost pearled the nose on the reo but recovered and milked it to the sand. Inside sections were not as rampy as they have been and a bit slopey and mushy.

Took a break with suit partially on and even took a 15 min old man nap on the rocks. Buddy was amped for the dub, but I was impartial. Waited a bit and started to see some improvement after the ebb but looking south spied some empty tapered lefts peeling into calm water on a low tide bar. Pulled out the binos to confirm, nother old man move. Passed them to buddy who agreed and we walked down and jumped back out. Juicy wedgy drops, you know the ones that bounce off the headland, to steep fast running walls feathered by the evening light offshore. Twinny was lighting up flying around with speed to burn on turns. Shapley ones pulsed for about 30 minutes and then pretty much stopped around sunset. Some of the best waves I've had down there in a while and it's been pretty good. Certainly felt like fall!

[Howly Wolf]

https://www.oregonlive.com/pacific-nort ... afety.html

Is Oregon surf ever good on Colombus Day? Feel like it's a bust every year.

[Major Lazer]

If you sarf Oregon you will die!!!!

Have had better luck with Vets and MLK days myself.

Hard to believe we're 2 weeks into October already. Swell size has been all over the place and hasn't exactly locked into that ideal 5-7 for more than a few days at best. Conditions have been pretty decent with some expected windless days IME. Have found some solitude on a few micro days, one included a fun right hander albeit belly to chest, but Ill take it! Finally some rampy racey rights!. Luck wasn't to great on that at 6 at 15-16 LP early last week, kinda went chasing unicorns, and got better waves on that 6 at 12 Thursday but only got the last hour and a half which was packed with a bunch of frothy goons for the 1st 45 min. Had to burn someone on a good set wave and luckily found some solitude before the buzzer belting off some backside hacks on some shapley walls after drifting down to 3rd but it was almost dark. Looks like the wet side of fall is here after some golden warm native summer weather which has been most enjoyable.

[Doc]

Welp...
As Foul Pete put it...
"...it will all be just fine..."
And it was.
End of September surfed some.
Thursday night session before the 19' swell arrived.
Friday just a lot of looking from up high and down low.
Neakahnie Cliffs spectacle was unreal.
Corduroy marching in.
Jetty scope with hopes of an inside surf but...
Sloppy and so so full of jellies.
Saturday literally hiked from Falcon Cove to Shorties...
And then surfed. (Left a car full of boards in the lot)
Paddled out on a short (for me, 7'7" tri) up the gut at 3rd creek...
Spun and got a solid left right off the bat.
Looked out and saw my luck was out for a repeat so...
Walked to the north end rip and rode it out with my nephew.
Got a compliment from the kid too.
Said to his friend that he hoped...
"He could paddle out like that when he's 63."
He's got 25 year or so to go before he can find out.
Switched the 7'7" tri for a 7' Stretch quad with which...
I had little luck due to my tendency to be a bit to heavy on my back foot.
Sunday finally dropped back down so returned to the 9'4" and had a nice long session.
Stayed coastal all that week and surfed multiple sessions.
Or whenever the wife was otherwise occupied anyhow.
Columbus Day surf was no great shakes but it wasn't too bad...
On the 7'7" again and the swell was on the bump.
Head high when paddled out to head & a half (maybe) when I paddled in,
Got a handful and got my @ss handed to me on a few.
Life in balance.
Go get it surfers.
Doc

[Foul Pete]

Go get it surfers.
Doc

I did Doc. I purchased a new outfit. More a disguise really. Its called 'sunny optimistic disposition." Does it suit me? Nah. But I force it on more frequently. Like the last time I surfed. Pulled up at a spot that all of us here have been surfing for decades. Not a secret but you would likely surf it with 5 or less people, especially on a week day until the last few years. Anyway, 20 or so out before 9am on weekday. I nearly drove off in defeat but saw some waves that convinced me otherwise. I also knew the side shore sweep would keep everyone spread out.

Anyway, on its day we all know this spot can behave like a right-hand point. Had a session here a few Novembers back that ranks up as one of my Oregon top 10. Sunny day with Smithgrind and stupidly long carvable right hand walls. It Wasn't like that this day but there were a few waves that behaved as I'd hoped and I snagged half a dozen. Pure luck really. Locals were fixated on the outside mush that was breaking off the rocks, while the main event was a more inside peak that really starting cooking and firing up some fast walls. Some close outs, some weird backing off slow burners but for whatever reason... the ones that came my way behaved as I hoped. Right board, right fins, right state of mind. 6 waves to remind me it can still happen every once in awhile...

[Major Lazer]

Bummer..... If it was last Friday, hit it later mid day with just one other head out thinking was still on the DL. Well maybe not the spot itself but the fact it was working. Been years since I've seen or surfed it decent and yes down the beach a bit was the spot to be. Had a similar experience.

[BOX]

Still getting out a couple of times a week pushing myself in some of these bigger swells. I've caught some pretty nice waves lately. I have also been fairly punished when I didn't. No complaints.

Was walking back to my car after a recent session and a guy with no less gray in his beard than I have said to me, "You're still surfing at your age???" Um, I'm 49... didn't think it was time to be put out to pasture quite yet. I plan to keep doing this for a little while longer.

In other news, I'm thinking of shaving the beard...