Killed a heavy dose of valley rot over the weekend, 3 Fing weeks dry
Did luck into a few floating holidays I had to burn before the year end and put on the calendar without really being able to plan around sarf. Pffft new bosman just dont understand. So opted for 2, 3 day weekends, and last weekend was the 1st. Friday was prob my best sesh, but didn't come together until the last few hours of daylight. Tricky swamp high tides, but once it started sucking out what looked to be mundane turned into something quite fun with just a crowd of 4 or 5. Christened Jah Winter Mid, aka Jah Fun Gun. Was def over gunned, but was able to canoe into the biggest set waves, get in deep, and blast though multiple sections. Don't think I've ever seen this wave throw little barrel sections like it was and saw a guy pull into one of the most legit pits I've ever seen there and even found 3 or 4 peek a boo's myself. Board went well in HHish and even lesser sized walls and quite maneuverable for a 7-2.
Sat drove and hiked around for a bit looking for a channel and something holding a swell that seemed bigger then the buoys were indicating. Jumped out again for the suck out and last few hours light after watching it all afternoon. A bit jumbled but was starting to clean up. 6'-8' and perfect for testing new board. Solo dolo for a bit and was joined by my homie and 2 others. Lotta drops to walled walls, but the ones the went, went for a long way and covered some ground requiring a pretty long paddle back out often taking a few lumps on the head. Another bitching sunset from the water and a damn warm and pleasant night of camping.
Went to bed hoping for clean punchy HH peaks, but new swell on top of another swell made for some typico OR funk-a-lunk esp the SW direction it had. None the less made the best of it, got to, and a buddy and I paddled out to an outer bar and some drifty lefts we were watching from the beach. 6' to 7' wedgy peak, a bit of water moving around, and a nasty current pushing north. Mostly big drops then fizzled out. Had luck on a few kinda backdooring the peak being able to get one turn in. Wind switched from east south east after a bit, peak kinda died out, and called it. All and all stoked on new board. Cant believe I went all last winter without a 7'+ stepish shape selling a couple old bladed out semis, but probably cause it mostly sucked. Fun and well needed 3 day run late fall early winter surf. Fingers Xed La Nina gives us a winter worth remembering and the weekend warriors some love
Routine is a vampire. Manu Chao-